HOW TO 64 3. INSTALL GUIDE WIRE 1. CALCULATE LENGTH 2. INSTALL END/CORNER POSTS HOW TO INSTALL HIGH-TENSILE FENCE In planning a new fence, the first step is to find the length. An easy and economical way to measure footage is to step off a known distance (such as the length of a barn) and calculate the length of your average step. You can save time and get a more accurate measurement by using a measuring wheel. Draw a rough map of the fence showing lengths, gates, ends, corners, and other special terrain considerations you may have. This is an excellent visual aid and will go a long way toward keeping you organized. Refer to the acreage chart (page 66) for approximate perimeter footage compared to acreage. Use this chart for educated guessing only. It is always best to measure the fence line distance as accurately as possible in order to purchase the correct amount of materials. Remember, when the fence around a square pas- ture is doubled in length, there is four times as much land inside. An easy way to remember the square footage in an acre is to remember there are 640 acres in a square mile (5,280’ x 5,280’ divided by 640 acres = 43,560 sq ft/acre). The materials list for The first posts to install are the 5” to 6” diameter (measured at the small end) corner and end posts. It is best to lean the posts 2” to 4” away from the pull of the wire. This will help prevent uplift in the future. Lift- ing is the most common problem of end and corner posts. The end and corner posts need to be placed below the frost line, at least 3’ into the ground. The lower third of the hole should be concreted, if hand set, to keep the post from lifting out of the hole. The biggest labor-saving tool is a hydraulic post driver. Posts are set very quickly and tightly. Tractor- mounted drivers start at about $2,500. If you have a lot of fence to build, it will pay for itself in labor savings alone. Kencove rents post drivers to local customers, but you may have a neighbor willing to rent one to you. Some contractors are willing to just drive the posts. Whether it’s the boundary that makes a good neighbor, a subdivision to control livestock and protect crops, or to safeguard against predators, any farmer knows the value of a good fence. High-tensile fence is an effective, reliable, low-cost solution. Compared to non-electric fences, you’ll enjoy savings by using wide post spacings (20’ to 50’) and lighter end bracing. Six high-tensile wires are not easy to get through, are almost impossible for animals to break, and often last up to 40 years. Before you begin, check local laws and regulations pertaining to fencing, and locate potential hazards such as underground utility lines and overhead electric wires. Make sure the fence path is clear of brush and debris. Installing the guide wire is next. This will be the lowest strand of fence wire and serves as a guide for setting line posts. If you need to carry the coil of high-tensile wire any distance, set the wire flat on the ground and step into the center hole. The coil feels much lighter when you have 2 hands holding it and the weight is centered on your feet. Place the coil on the spinning jenny and pull out the starting end of 12½ gauge wire. Snap locking pliers onto the end of the wire and walk along the fence line, being careful to pull at a steady pace and gradually slow down to stop. You can pull around several corners without tying off. Do your termination by crimping with two C23 sleeves or one C2L sleeve. This will maintain the full strength of the wire and also makes a neater connection. We do not recommend hand-tied knots as they are difficult and up to a third of the breaking strength of the wire can be lost. Go back to the end post near the spinning jenny. Pull the slack out of the wire and cut it so you have enough to tie the line off at that end post. Attach it using crimp sleeves. When you cut high-tensile wire, push the cut ends of wire into the ground to keep the wire from recoiling. Move to the frictional center of the line. our 15 acre, 3,280’ perimeter example fences have supplies for 3 corners and 2 ends. With more than 1/2 mile of fence, there are 2 sets of inline wire tighten- ers for each strand.